Embedded Files
Time Standard: 10 min/board
Other Notes:
Use a barrel top that isn't metal dowels (wood dowels are OK), and measure how far across it is if you remove the two curved edges. If it is less than 17" you will need to cut a piece in the next step.
Completely disassemble the barrel top, sometimes using pliers helps get a grip to wiggle it apart. If you were less than 17", take the larger of the two outside pieces and rip it on the table saw using a push block. If you aren't trained on the saw, ask somebody who is.
Make sure your pieces are laid out in the order that they will be assembled.
Put out two large clamps and lay a piece of masking tape on the rails that is approximately the same as the width of the barrel round. This protects the rails from the glue. Proper clamp setup is important because it will take awhile to spread the glue.
Starting with one edge, spread glue generously on the tongue and groove of one side and push in the matching side. Place the pieces face down in the clamps. Repeat the process until you have put it all together then tighten the clamps. Ideally glue will squeeze out at every joint.
As you tighten the clamps, press down on the barrel so that it is flat against the rails. The edges will usually not touch because of the bevel, but the majority of the barrel should be flat.
If you can't get it to be flat on it's own, place a piece of white PVC on the board, a FLAT piece of wood on top of the plastic, and then two clamps on either end, as shown above. This device is called a caul.
After drying overnight, the rounds are ready to be machined. Place "To Be Machined" shelf and label them.
Page updated
Google Sites
Report abuse